PICTORIAL STORY
October 25, 2024
OAXACA
In the Heart of the Day of the Dead
Photography by Tommaso Stefanori
Story by Melanie Meggs
In the labyrinthine streets of Oaxaca, Mexico, amidst the intoxicating aroma of copal incense and the vibrant hues of Marigold flowers, Tommaso Stefanori embarked on a journey to document Dia de Los Muertos. Born in Rome, Italy, where he is currently based, Tommaso’s passion for travel led him to photography. Initially self-taught and focused on street photography, his early work captured the raw, candid moments of urban life. Seeking to deepen his photographic knowledge, Tommaso attended a photo reportage course at the ‘Graffiti’ School of Photography in Rome, under the guidance of photographer and photojournalist Gianni Pinnizzotto. Here, he developed a deep interest for documentary photography, particularly of a social and travel nature, that continues to guide his work today.
Tommaso’s transition from street to documentary photography reflects both his growth and a stronger understanding of storytelling. His photographs go beyond visual representation, capturing the human experiences and cultural traditions with an empathetic approach. This evolution earned him recognition in 2023 at the 7th edition of the International Award ‘I Versi Non Scritti’ for his emotionally resonant work. Today, Tommaso collaborates with photojournalistic agencies ZUMA Press and NurPhoto, while continuing to pursue personal projects as a freelance photographer. His work balances professional assignments with personal exploration.
His latest project, “Oaxaca - In the Heart of the Day of the Dead,” invites viewers into the vibrant celebration of Día de los Muertos. This festival, a vibrant amalgamation of pre-Columbian indigenous rituals and Spanish colonial influences, reflecting Mexico’s rich cultural heritage. Tommaso’s photographs reveal the festival’s intricate layers of symbolism and ceremony unfolding, offering an immersive experience.
Día de los Muertos, celebrated from October 31st to November 2nd, honors the deceased in stages. November 1st, known as Día de los Angelitos, is dedicated to children, while November 2nd, Día de los Difuntos, focuses on adults. This schedule highlights the festival’s strong communal and familial connections, as families gather in cemeteries to clean and decorate graves, often maintaining a nocturnal vigil in reverence of their loved ones.
Tommaso’s photography beautifully captures this interplay of life and death, the earthly and the spiritual. His images reveal not only the colorful decorations and lively parades but also the moments of introspection and connection that define the festival. Each photograph reflects the meaning of Día de los Muertos into a visual narrative that resonates with both cultural significance and personal reflection.
Through “Oaxaca - In the Heart of the Day of the Dead,” Tommaso Stefanori invites us to explore the festival’s rich traditions and the emotional depth that accompanies the celebration of life and death. His work serves as a lens into the enduring cultural rituals and human connections at the heart of this celebration.
Oaxaca, with its small size and local population, becomes a focal point for this ancient tradition. The city is transformed into a kaleidoscope of colors and emotions, where every corner pulsates with life. “Oaxaca, in the heart of Mexico, has become the main core of the Día de los Muertos celebrations,” Tommaso notes. “For this event, a colorful and complex preparatory and decorative machine is set in motion. Flowers, candles, altars, masks, make-up, and costumes transform the streets of the barrios (districts). The atmosphere is filled with floats, parades, music, and dancing almost non-stop, especially at night. Yet, amidst the festivities, there is a pervasive feeling of respect, reverence, and profound spirituality towards the holiday and its loving meaning: remembering and celebrating the memory of one's muertos (deceased).”
Tommaso captures the duality of this festival, intertwining the exuberance of life with the solemnity of death, stating, “These are two very intense days of conviviality between human and spiritual, past and present, earthly and otherworldly, between those who have been and those who still are.”
The preparations for the celebrations begin days before the official start date. Tommaso’s photographs document the meticulous preparations — fields of orange Marigolds harvested and crafted into intricate decorations, in almost every corner of streets, houses, and cemeteries. “The streets are adorned with festoons and decorations — sometimes enormous —of skeletons and skulls. Local inhabitants, with skill and imagination, equip themselves with chairs and make-up kits in the street, transforming the faces, sometimes entire bodies, of locals and tourists into skulls and skeletons. The skeleton woman represents a strong icon of this tradition and takes the name of Calavera Catrina,” Tommaso explains.
Over the decades, the Calavera Catrina, or ‘Elegant Skeleton,’ has grown beyond her satirical origins to become a beloved symbol of the Day of the Dead. Her portrayal, often in elaborate gowns and floral headdresses, encapsulates a unique cultural perspective on mortality. Her origin is closely linked to the visionary artistry of José Guadalupe Posada, whose early 20th-century etchings gave the skeletal figure socio-political commentary. Posada's “La Calavera Garbancera,” adorned with an extravagant European-style hat, was a piercing critique of the Mexican elite's infatuation with European fashions, a reminder of their neglect of indigenous heritage. In contemporary artistic expression, the Calavera Catrina communicates a deep sense of continuity, identity, and cultural pride, serving as a reminder of the cyclical nature of life and death, a key aspect of the Mexican worldview.
“As the parades begin, rivers of masked and made-up people parade from one corner of the barrios to another. Multiple parades occur simultaneously, with music and dances intertwining to form one grand celebration.”
As day turns to night, Tommaso’s images transition from the lively parades and joyous dances to the intimate and spiritual moments shared in candlelit courtyards and bustling cemeteries. Here, he captures the raw emotion and reverence as families gather to honor their deceased loved ones, highlighting the contrast between celebration and solemnity. The illuminated tombs, offerings, and quiet conversations between the living and the dead are shown through his lens, offering insight into the festival.
“The emotion becomes even stronger in the cemeteries, which seem to come to life. Countless family members gather and camp around the tombs of their deceased loved ones, illuminated by the bright and warm lights of lit candles. Spending the entire night there, equipped with chairs, blankets, and a few drinks, the looks and eyes of these people convey an enormous sense of spirituality and respect. This is an intimate moment, and they don’t seem to be bothered by the presence of strangers — in fact, they sometimes invite you to join them. Around some tombs, there are numerous family members, sometimes with children, while around others, there are solitary individuals, often elderly, and some tombs remain dark and solitary.”
As the sun rises, the new day begins with the first parades and musical bands moving through the streets of the barrios. Tommaso captures this scene, reflecting the idea that “it's only up to us to decide how to live the eternal game between life and death.” His photographs portray this interplay, offering a vivid portrayal of the duality that defines the Day of the Dead — a celebration where life and death coexist in a harmonious, vibrant dance.
Tommaso Stefanori’s work reveals the layers of Día de los Muertos, a festival where the material and spiritual worlds converge, where memories are rekindled with each flicker of a candle, and where the living embrace the departed in a dance of life and death. His photographs do more than document; they invite us into a world where every face painted as a skeleton, every altar meticulously arranged, and every parade that fills the streets speaks of a culture's deep respect for its ancestors and a fearless acceptance of mortality. Through Tommaso’s eyes, we see Oaxaca not just as a place but as a living canvas of tradition, emotion, and timeless celebration.
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